Monday, September 28, 2009

The Six Functions of Dress

While we may not think about it as we get dressed every morning, there are social reasons for choosing which items of clothing to don and how we accessorize that outfit. We dress for environmental protection, decoration, gender differentiation, group membership, ceremonialism, or sexual enhancement, or any combination thereof.


ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION

No matter where we live, we wear clothing to protect us from environmental extremes. In colder climates, coats, hats and gloves are mittens are needed to keep us warm. In warmer climes, less clothing made from cooler fabrics are used to stay cool.


The Mexican peasant dresses are typically made of a solid cotton fabric (often white) for comfort and are embroidered for decoration. In America, this type of dress has recently become quite popular and is often referred to as "Boho" or hippie style.





Oaxacan embroidery vintage Mexican Peasant Dress Tunic
ca 1970s


DECORATION
Another important characteristic of humans is that we are individuals. Having a clear idea of who we are in comparison to others, we work hard in devising ways to represent those differences. Historically, garments and other elements of attire, hairstyles, accessories and other body adornments have served that differentiation purpose.

The Indian bindi is the dot or red spot on the forehead of a Hindu. Once it indicated that the person had done puja, prayer or sacrifice, for the day. Today the bindi is simply a decorative accent.

Indian Bride - Brides magazine, May 2006


GENDER DIFFERENTIATION


The history of the kilt stretches back to at least late 16th century. In the days when Scotsmen wore kilts exclusively, Scotswomen wore long skirts or dresses. Gender differenti0n was defined by the length of the skirt.


Today most Scotsmen regard kilts as formal dress or national dress. Although there are still a few people who wear a kilt daily, it is generally owned or hired to be worn at weddings or other formal occasions, much the same way as tuxedos in America, and may be worn by anyone regardless of nationality or descent. For formal wear, kilts are usually worn with a Prince Charlie or an Argyll jacket.




Lochcarron of Scotland
2009

GROUP MEMBERSHIP

Dress can also be used to identify the particular group to which an individual belongs. The most common example of group membership attire is the uniform. Its importance throughout history has fluctuated from time to time, but it is mostly constant.

The Red Hat Society (RHS) is a social organization founded in 1998 for women approaching the age of 50 and beyond and is the largest women’s social group in the world. The Red Hat Society’s primary purpose is social interaction among women, and to encourage fun, friendship, freedom and fulfillment. They are identifiable by their red hats and purple clothing.


Red Hat Society members, ca. 2009
Various designers & manufacturers

CEREMONIALISM

Charles Frederick Worth is widely considered the Father of Haute Couture. An English-born fashion designer of the 19th century, much of his work is associated with the movement to redefine the female fashionable shape, removing excessive ruffles and frills and using rich fabrics in Much of his work is associated with the movement to redefine the female fashionable shape, removing excessive ruffles and frills and using rich fabrics in simple but flattering outlines. He designed dresses for the aristocracy to be presented at court; that is have an audience with the king and/or queen. Such an event was a great honor and dressing appropriately was of supreme importance. This dress was designed for Esther Maria (Lily) Lewis Chapin to be worn for presentation at a European court.


Court presentation dress, ca. 1888
Charles Frederick Worth


SEXUAL ENHANCEMENT
In different cultures and historical times, dressing for sexual enhancement or attracting the opposite sex has manifested itself in different ways. We are accustomed to seeing tighter or less clothing in Western cultures in the modern day. But in other cultures and our own history, showing an ankle or more decolletage was considered sexy.

In the 1950s, Marilyn Monroe made the wiggle dress famous and many women wore it to try to emulate her beauty and sex appeal. Wiggle dresses are very formfitting with a tight knee-length skirt. The term wiggle refers to the way women who wore them were forced to walk; with a wiggle.



Unknown designer
ca 1950s

Sunday, September 13, 2009

Fashion Source Book


I am a graduate student at the Academy of Art University (http://www.academyart.edu/) and this blog will be my fashion source book for my class in the History of 20th Century Fashion Arts. I will be posting various blogs and images related to fashion and related topics.

The image I posted is from a recent season of Mad Men, a series on AMC. I am fascinated by this show about the 1960s advertising world and the lives affected by it. The costumes are famously fabulous. I love the New Look shape featured in the first few seasons. The prints on these two dresses remind me of tablecloth and upholstery!