Genealogy of Pointed Shoes

I’ve had dozens of men ask me how I can wear pointed toe shoes; my answer is usually something like, “I’m used to them”. Ironically, men were the first to wear pointed toe shoes.

Medieval Times

Pointed toe shoes originated in France, reportedly invented by a count who wished to hide his deformed feet. The “poulaine” began appearing in the 12th century and reached their height of popularity in the 14th century. They were worn by both men and women, but the men’s grew extravagantly long. In fact, some grew so long; they had to be held up with the assistance of whalebone or string, tied just below the knee.

Poulaines, circa 1500

Poulines, 1564

Since we all know that fashion is cyclical (lately we’ve been on a 20-year cycle), pointed toed shoes have gone in and out of style. They became most notably popular during the 18th century Rococo period, Edwardian period (circa 1900), with the flappers in the 1920s, the 1950s and the 1980s. Today, many styles are fashionable, although rounded toes seem to have temporarily replaced pointed toes.

18th Century – Rococo

At the beginning of the 18th Century, the balance of world power shifted. France no longer had the international clout it once held, and England lost the American colonies. Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette reigned, and everyone was having a rocking good time. Styles for both men and women became frivolous and flamboyant.

Rococo Heel, c. 1780

Louis heel, Rococo

French boot, 1780

Early 1900s – Edwardian

New ideas and inventions were in abundance: the first World Series, the Model T, vacuum cleaner, teddy bear (Teddy Roosevelt was president), subways, the Theory of Relativity, and the FBI. Women’s fashion at the turn of the century was beautiful and romantic. For shoes, silk or fine kid was used for the dressy styles with buckles or bows as decoration and that completely matched their whole outfit.

1875 Joseph BoxSilk Court Shoe

Edwardian rhinestone beaded silk dress shoes. c. 1900

1950s

The fifties were a very conservative time. World War II was over and life was good and optimistic. Television made its debut this decade, and June Cleaver became the stereotypical wife and mother; cleaning the house in pearls and pumps. Dior’s “New Look" and Coco Chanel created their glamorous designs to give women the “every inch the lady” look. In this decade, Charles Jourdan introduced the stiletto. Very stylish women had shoes to match every outfit (and pocketbook).

1954 Saks Fifth Avenue

Metallic Gold Stilettos. 1950

1950 's Pump

1980s

The eighties were a very materialistic decade. The economy was booming, and greed was considered good. The DINK (double income no kids) and yuppie lifestyles were born, and shopping malls began popping up everywhere to cater to this new category of consumer. Women were now in the corporate world and had to dress the part. Power suits and pumps became the norm.

1980's purple snakeskin and suede pumps, J Renee

1980s Pump

Today

For the past couple of years, we’ve seen a more rounded toe, but I’m still wearing my pointed toe shoes. I like the longer look of my legs with them. I only wish I owned a pair of these…

Christian Laboutin Anemone, 2007